And now there came both mist and snow,
And it grew wondrous cold:
And ice, mast-high, came floating by,
as green as emerald
And through the drifts the snowy clifts
Did send a dismal sheen:
Nor shapes of men nor beasts we ken-
The ice was all between
The ice was here, the ice was there,
The ice was all around:
It cracked and growled, and roared and howled
Like noises in a swound!
~Samuel Taylor Coleridge, The Rime of the Ancient Mariner
March 1915 began with a severe northeasterly gale. During the gale, which lasted until the 3rd, all hands spent the time clearing out the 'tween decks to convert it into a living and dining room for the officers and scientists. In this room, the carpenter installed the stove that was intended for the shore hut, but since the ship was not currently headed toward shore, it was put to use here. The dogs did not seem too bothered by the weather, although one of the older dogs died of appendicitis the night of the 2nd.
When the weather cleared, it was found that the ice had been driven in from the northeast and was now packed more closely together and a new iceberg, possibly fifteen miles in length, had appeared on the northern horizon. By this time, many of the bergs that surrounded them had become familiar sights and some even had names. The bergs had appeared to be drifting with the pack, so the appearance of a new one was of great interest. In such a shallow sea, a berg of that size could easily be stranded and exert pressure on the surrounding floes. The population of
Endurance had already seen the results of an encounter between a berg and a floe, and had no wish for their ship to experience the same.
The scientists were very busy at this time. Meteorologist Leonard Hussey was able to set up his recording station containing anemometer, barograph (a contraption rather like a seismograph for barometric pressure), and thermograph (same thing, but for temperature). The geologist, James Wordie, was unhappy as they were still at sea and not on land, but contented himself with pebbles found in the digestive systems of penguins and rocks brought up from the sea floor. Robert Clark, the biologist, frequently used the dragnet to haul up plankton for study.
Seal meat made up most of their diet this time, as the company was trying to preserve their food supplies. Seal meat is apparently very tasty, and the men would have been happy to eat nothing but it, although they discovered that crab eater seal was preferable to Weddel seal. Although many of the larger whales had gone north, the Killer Whales were still with them, and one day they found slabs of ice 3 feet thick pushed upwards where a Killer Whale had been smashing ice for a breathing hole.
The new quarters in the 'tween decks were complete on the 10th and became known as "the Ritz". Meals were now served there, instead of the ward room, breakfast was at 9 a.m., lunch at 1 p.m., tea at 4p.m. and dinner at 6 p.m. By the middle of the month, all hands were settled into winter routine. The next day, the 11th, Captain Frank Worsley, Photographer Frank Hurley, and Wordie set out for one of the large icebergs, which had been designated Rampart Berg, about 7 1/2 miles distant. In all, they covered a distance of about 17 miles. Hurley took photographs, and Wordie was delighted to find dust and some moss. Worsley reported that the ice around the berg for about one mile was strong enough to march upon, and the dangerous pressure of the floes around the berg did not extend more than a quarter mile. This was useful information considering if the iceberg was instead a ship, their ship, it would be important to know how much pressure they would handle. On the 14th, land was faintly visible to the Southeast, about 36 miles out. A few leads of open water could be seen from the ship, but the ice was still firmly packed in the immediate neighborhood. The drift of
Endurance with the pack was still northwest.
Shackleton had been burning two hundredweights (in Britain a Hundredweight is 112 pounds, so about 224 lbs.) a day to keep the boilers from freezing. This practice ceased on March 15th. They still had about 52 tons of coal left, but at that rate, there would not be much coal left for steaming by spring. Although, Shackleton also planned to supplement their supply with seal and penguin blubber.
Fine snow fell on the 17th, but then the weather cleared to reveal a beautiful sunset and a famous occurrence at the ends of the world, the F
ata Morgana, a type of mirage.
Fata Morgana comes from the Italian name of Morgan(a) le Fay, the sorceress of Arthurian legend, as it was originally believed the flickering image above the horizon were fairy castles or false land created by witchcraft. The scientific explanation is a bit more mundane,
Fata Morgana occurs in calm weather and
is caused by a thermal inversion, when a clearly defined layer of warm air rests above a layer of cooler air. The upper-level warm air acts like a refracting lens and bends light rays to make distant objects, even those over the horizon, visible. The actual thing itself is far from mundane, with fantastic distorted images of cliffs, ships, or buildings shimmering and ever-changing, often upside-down and even with several inverted and right-side-up images stacked on top of each other in the sky. Shackleton reports images of distant ice cliffs were seen in the sky in double and triple parallel lines, some of them inverted. He states this was probably due to open water near land causing the mirage.
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Fata Morgana of a ship |
Mirages were a frequent occurrence in calm weather. On March 29th, barrier cliffs appeared all around the ship, even in places where they knew was deep water. Shackleton wrote, "Bergs and pack are thrown up in the sky and distorted into the most fantastic shapes. They climb, trembling, upwards, spreading out into long lines at different levels, then contract and fall down, leaving nothing but an uncertain, wavering smudge which comes and goes. Presently the smudge swells and grows, taking shape until it presents the perfect inverted reflection of a berg on the horizon, the shadow hovering over the substance. More smudges appear at different points on the horizon. These spread out into long lines till they meet and are girdled by lines of shining snow cliffs, laved at their bases by waters of illusion in which they appear to be faithfully reflected. So the shadows come and go silently, melting away finally as the sun declines to the west...."
Building winter quarters and gazing at mirages was not the only thing to be done. The men began serious training for the dogs to pull the sleds, although they lost some dogs to stomach and intestinal worms. The scientists continued to dredge the sea bottom for specimens. In addition to mud, they brought up rock fragments, pebbles, sponges, worms, brachiopods, and foraminiferae, a type of protozoa. One of their best hauls yielded a 75 lb lump of sandstone, a piece of fossiliferous limestone, a fragment of striated shale, sandstone grit, and some pebbles. On one occasion, they heard a great yell from Clark and witnessed him dancing about shouting Scottish war cries. He had apparently just secured his first complete specimen of a new species of Antarctic fish. (Ah, nerds.)
From January 19, when the ship got stuck, until March 31, the pack had drifted 95 miles in a North 80 degrees West direction. The icebergs had not changed their relative position the entire time. As March moved into April, the sun sank lower in the sky and the temperature gradually dropped. The surrounding ice began to thicken, and very little open water was to be seen. They tried to get a wireless signal the morning of April 1, but again failed. Soundings of the sea floor indicated the sea was continuing to shoal, and gravel in the bottoms samples indicated they were nearing land.
April was not without event. During the night on the 3rd, they heard ice grinding to the east, and in the morning saw ice that was rafted by pressure to a height of 8-10 feet. The next day brought the prelude to what the ship would later face, ice was heard grinding and creaking and the ship vibrated slightly. Shackleton gave orders that all the ice, snow, and debris which had accumulated around the
Endurance should be shoveled away. In case pressure increased, he wanted no extra weight on the ship to prevent it rising above the ice. On the evening of the 15th an interesting phenomenon was observed. The sun set on a line of clouds just above the horizon. A minute later Captain Worsley saw a golden glow, and then the sun reappeared above the horizon. A quarter of an hour later, the sun set a second time. Of course, it was not the real sun, this was a type of mirage, which they attributed to an ice crack to the west, where a band of open water had heated the air.
The sun set for the final time on May 1, so began the long twilight that would give way to the darkness of winter. On that day, the sun just cleared the horizon at noon, and set just before 2 p.m. The company of
Endurance, however, refused to lose their customary cheerfulness. Still, Shackleton knew the ice would not permit them to return to Vashel bay. Although there were a few good landing spots on the western coast of the Weddell Sea, he was not sure they could be reached early enough in the coming year to make a journey over land possible.
May dragged into June with little noteworthy event. Whatever may come, the training and managing of the dogs was essential, and that took much of their time. On June 15 they held the "Antarctic Derby" a race of sled teams. Betting was heavy, wagers were placed with everything from money to chocolate and cigarettes. Five teams drove the 700-yard course, and the winner was Frank Wild's team, which ran the distance in 2 min. 16 seconds, or about 10 miles per hour. Midwinter's Day was celebrated on the 22nd of June, with a twilight of about 6 hours and good light from the moon. Only necessary work was done, and after dinner, all hands gathered in the Ritz for speeches, songs, and toasts until midnight, when they sang "God Save the King."
Beautiful sunrise glows in the early days of July heralded the return of the sun, which were soon followed, on the evening of the 13th, by the most severe blizzard they had experienced in Antarctica. During the blizzard the temperature ranged from - 21 to- 35 degrees F. Temperature often rises during a blizzard, caused by warm foehn winds flowing down a mountain range. The temperature did not rize in this blizzard, indicating there was no high land for at least 200 miles to the south. Ice pressure was an increasing cause of anxiety. Ice was rafting 10 to 15 feet high and cracks were opening everywhere while the ship was jarred with heavy bumps. After seventy-nine days of darkness, the sun re-appeared above the horizon on July 26. Biologist Clark was happy because the returning light made
diatoms return to the ice, as they cannot multiply without light.
One year to the day since
Endurance left England, Sunday August 1 1915, the ice that held the ship fast broke up suddenly. All the dogs and sleds were brought aboard safely, but the ship presently listed to port against the currently blowing gale, and was forced forward at the same time. But as quickly as it happened, the sea subsided again, although the party was alarmed, and orders were given for all hands to stand by. In the breakup, a large lump of ice was wedged between the rudder and the stern post. Although the men were able to pole the ice away, damage had been done. Closer examination revealed the rudder had been pushed hard over to starboard and the blade partially torn away from the rudder head. The ice pack was still in chaos, with floes rafting and banging into each other, so repairs could not be effected.
Four dogs had to be shot on August 3. They were suffering horribly from worms and the party could not afford to keep sick dogs under such chaotic conditions. The ice gradually settled down, until there was no open water to be seen nearby and no land could be viewed for 10 miles. The next day dog kennels were built on deck, and the sun was seen above the horizon for nearly an hour. Despite the upheaval of the ice, nearly all the ice bergs within view stayed in the same position that they had been for the past seven months.
By August 24, no land could be seen from the masthead within 20 miles. A sounding of 1900 fathoms the next day further proved the nonexistence of New South Greenland. New South Greenland, also known as Morrell's Land, was supposedly sighted in 1828 by Captain Benjamin Morrell of the
Wasp on a voyage in the Weddell Sea. Morrell gave precise coordinates and a description of the coastline, which included mountains, and claimed to sail along the coast of this land for over 300 miles. The problem was, no one who came after him could find land in that area. And now that
Endurance was in that area and found no land whatsoever and very deep sea, New South Grenland obviously did not exist. Still, Captain Morrell saw something, what was it? It is suggested he saw a very large ice berg, (although even the biggest are not 300 miles long), he could have been mistaken as to where he was in the Weddel Sea and actually sighted the "Foyn Coast", which is part of the Antarctic Peninsula and about 14 degrees further west than New South Greenland was presumed to be. Or, most likely, Morrell was taken in by yet another
Fata Morgana, the constant companions of polar explorers that reflect flat coastline in the sky to appear as tall cliffs.
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Fata Morgana of nearby land |
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Iceberg in the vicinity of "New South Greenland" taken from Endurance, August 1915 |
Late at night on the last day of August, the ice began to squeeze the ship again, cracking and groaning noises, along with occasional buckling of beams and planks continued through the next day. The day after that, September 2, a large sheet of ice was gripping the port bow about three feet beneath the water's surface. Shackleton had hoped they would not have to march across ice to reach the land but, although
Endurance was a strong ship, even the strongest ship could not withstand the deadly embrace of ice forever.